by Katie Glaudell
July 14th, 1789: starving Parisians fought their way into the Bastille prison, marking the start of the French Revolution. Bastille Day is now celebrated across France with plenty of food at outdoor gatherings, in the spirit of the revolution's motto: Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité.
Why Should We Care About Bastille Day?
From the Louisiana Purchase to D-Day, French and U.S. histories are undeniably interwoven. The French crown went into heavy debt aiding us in our revolution, unknowingly planting the seeds of their own demise thirteen years later. Just ten days America celebrates its independence from the British monarchy with red-white-and-blue decor, parades, picnics, and fireworks, France similarly celebrates their own liberation--with their own red-white-and-blue decor, parades, picnics, and fireworks. Speaking of picnics...
Picnics, Pre- and Post-Revolution
Some historians believe the word picnic (pique-nique in French) comes from the verb piquer meaning "to sting" or "to peck," and the noun nique, meaning "thing of little importance"--perhaps referring to its "grazing" style in contrast with formal dinner parties. Even the history of picnicking itself is murky--many references to European picnics in earlier centuries refer to indoor potluck-style parties and balls. When and why did the festivities move outside? Do its al fresco origins belong to the peasants, pausing their labor in the fields for a scenic snack break? Or does it belong to the ruling class, hosting hunting parties and fêtes champêtres (countryside festivals) on their estates?
Either way, both the proletariat and the posh had a hand in popularizing
the modern picnic after the French Revolution. Aristocracy fleeing across the Channel introduced the trend to the British upper-crust. Back in Paris, private parks were seized by the state and made open to the public, allowing nature-starved city folks to enjoy a meal on the grass. In the 19th century, French Impressionists devoted paintings to outdoor scenes of ordinary people, forever defining the ideal picnic in Western consciousness. Are you picturing a shady green spot laid out with blankets, tablecloths, cushions, and wicker baskets? Can you see bottles of wine, piles of fresh fruit, baguettes, cheese, and cold cuts? Do you imagine the casually-reclined bourgeoisie with their summer suits and white lace dresses? Save for the clothing, not much has changed.
What Do the French Do on Bastille Day?
Today, picnicking is central to Bastille Day celebrations in France. After a massive military parade headed down the Champs-Élysées, Parisians head to parks and the banks of the Seine to eat, drink, and socialize, ending the day with show-stopping fireworks near the Eiffel Tower. Backyards host sumptuous spreads with friends and family. In the year 2000, France organized "L'Incroyable Pique-Nique" for the first Bastille Day of the new millennium. Extra-long checkered tablecloths were laid out in a line from village to village along the Paris Meridian, stretching for a thousand kilometers from the English Channel to France's southern border with Spain. In the spirit of Liberté, Égalité, and Fraternité, picnickers brought food and wine to share with neighbors, for the "longest-ever lunch."
What do the French Eat on Bastille Day?
The first and most important answer is: bread. Certainly a star of the modern French diet, bread meant survival for most people in 18th-century France. In the decades leading up to the Revolution drought, war, population boom, and speculation all contributed to skyrocketing grain prices, spelling disaster for French workers who already spent half their daily wages on bread. When the hungry masses stormed the Bastille in 1789 looking for weapons, they were also looking for hidden stores of grain. So, crusty bread from the local boulangerie is a must for a celebration of French liberation. Other simple foods are opted for on this holiday--for convenience and to salute the peasants that started it all. Regional choices may differ, but common Bastille Day picnic items you might find include:
- Butter: Cultured French butter can't be beat.
- Ham: Add to your bread and butter for a classic Jambon Beurre sandwich.
- Paté: Sliceable, spreadable, spicy, and savory--a perfect picnic food.
- Cheese: Roquefort, Brie, and Camembert are popular choices.
- In-Season Produce: Berries, grapes, stone fruit, figs, melons, tomatoes, and cucumbers, are all picnic-ready in July.
- Cornichons: A refreshing bite of acid to cut through the rich flavors.
- Dessert: Portable treats like palmiers and madeleines pair well with bubbles.
It's quite fun in France to plan a picnic on the fly--grabbing essentials from local markets, butchers, bakers, and cheesemongers along the way to the nearest park. Backyard picnics are an opportunity for more elaborate offerings. Roast chicken, green beans, savory or sweet tartes, and leafy greens dressed in olive oil and vinegar are often-seen items. Just as we love our pasta salads for summer potlucks in the States, salade niçoise (featuring tuna or anchovies) and potato salad tossed in Dijon-white wine dressing are French picnic classics.
A note on potatoes: While introduced to Europe in the 16th century, France did not embrace the tuber until after the Revolution, when they were quite literally starving. Initially looked upon with disgust and believed to cause leprosy, it took years of bad wheat harvests, political turmoil, and a lifelong PR campaign from agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to get France to accept the potato for the wonder that it is. Parmentier is now honored with monuments, street names, and a place at Père-Lachese Cemetery in Paris, surrounded by potato plants.
Don't forget the drinks!
- Wine, of course! Bubbles, crisp whites, and light-bodied reds are ideal for the summer heat.
- Normandy Cidre and Belgian Saison Beer: Bone-dry, refreshing, and food-friendly.
- Citron Pressé: Next-level lemonade with fresh-squeezed lemons, sugar, and sparkling water.